REPOST: Telepan Tribeca

I'm reposting my review of Telepan Tribeca that got sucked into the void when Blogger crashed last week. QNY's Dr. Jeff was able to recover it for me. This week is the last week to try TT at the Pecan Cafe.

By West Village Bill

Lou and I had an interesting but not completely satisfying dinner tonight at Telepan Tribeca, a pop-up variation of the Upper West Side restaurant that's serving supper for just four weeks, and only from Wednesday to Friday, at Pecan Cafe.

I'm a huge fan of the fresh-from-the-Greenmarket aesthetic that chef Bill Telepan is known for, but I wasn't super excited about the offerings tonight.

First up were three amuses-bouches: Beef Tenderloin With Fennel and Parmigiano, Ricotta Toast With Fava and Mint, and Sepia With Chili Oil. The toast was my favorite: eight bites of springtime. Lou really enjoyed the tenderloin. Neither of us is particularly fond of squid, but we had fun trying it. I made a point of eating a baby squid, body and all, after consuming a few separated tentacles, because I wanted to briefly get outside my comfort zone.

Next up was Egg Drop Soup in Mushroom Broth. The first few spoonfuls were satisfying, but I grew bored with it. I should point out that I'm not generally a big fan of mushrooms; it's a textural thing.

For our entree, Lou and I both selected Pasture Veal With Garlic Wild Greens and Lemon. (The other option had been Soft Shell Crabs With Sugar Snaps and Arugula.) We both found the veal to be unpleasantly chewy. I should have taken up my waiter on his offer to take it back to be cooked longer.

My favorite part of the meal was the wine. Lou and I both had a glass of the gorgeous, South African 2010 Man Vintners Chenin Blanc. And I sucked down—in a classy way—a glass of 2009 Copain Pinot Noir, from California's Russian River Valley, with my entree.

Dessert was a pleasant but not exactly innovative Strawberry Rhubarb Crumble, which Lou is shown forking up in the photo above.

So overall, it wasn't my favorite dinner out of late by a long shot, but it left me intrigued enough that I would give the Telepan flagship restaurant a whirl sometime. Lou said it was a fun experiment that earned a C.

TT is open tomorrow and Friday nights this week, starting at 6:30, with the same menu we encountered, and Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday nights next week, with a different menu. Four courses, with a choice only of the entree, cost $45. Wine or beer is extra. TT doesn't accept reservations.